1-8-06: Kyle
Sarah and I are back in Kolovai after a wonderful vacation in Vava’u. I forgot how beautiful Vava’u really is. This time around it was better because I wasn’t stressed by the home stay experience. Sarah and I stayed in down town Neiafu at a New Zealand owned Hostel called Backpackers. I would highly recommend anybody staying there because it’s right in the middle of town, it’s clean (no cockroaches), the staff is friendly, and it’s a great place to get hooked up with adventures. Unfortunately it’s the slow season right now so not much is happening, but I can guarantee during the tourist season Backpackers must be hopping with activity.

Most of our time spent was relaxing, having 2 hours breakfast while watching the hustle of people at the market buying and selling goods. Most meals we stretched for as long as possible. Having the market so close was so nice. We got pineapples, watermelons, bell peppers, bananas, and two doors down at the ikapuna we bought a 9lb yellow fin tuna for $24 pa’anga. Fish is cheap in Vava’u!
The Backpackers also has a full kitchen so Sarah and I made many wonderful meals: Fish with curry, fish tacos, chili and rice. I was amazed how much American food you could buy in Vava’u. It’s understandable considering that a lot my palangis head up to Vava’u so they stock all kinds of goodies. The one downfall is the ice cream selection doesn’t compare to Tongatapu, but maybe during tourist season they’ve got Ben and Jerry’s Ice Cream. I’m dreaming…
For New Years we were on the hunt for a good meal. The one place I was thinking was closed so we looked around. We ended up going to the Paradise Hotel for dinner. Sarah had lobster and I had a T-bone steak. Both meals were good, but beef here is from New Zealand so it doesn’t taste like good old American beef. We also had a banana split and a piece of chocolate cake. The deserts were a five out of 10. At around 10 we headed towards the Mermaid to find that it was already closed so we decided to head back to our room a stay up until midnight. Midnight brought fireworks ignited by local kids. Not a pyrotechnics display you’d see at any major city, but a random concoction of bangs, flashes, and whistles. I good end to the year.

Sarah and I did visit my home stay family once. It was a trip going back to the house. Before we went my home stay brother asked me what Sarah likes to eat. I told him fruit so there was a lot of fruit on the table when we sat down to eat while everybody else watched. It was a quick visit. I’m happy Sarah got to see where I spent most of my time in Vava’u as a trainee.
Yesterday I read a book called the Minutes of The Lead Pencil Club. The book basically has stories about how to live without technology. My favorite little blurb was about a computer center in Micronesia that has a state-of-the-art computer center, but not a single bathroom for the children. It made me think of the computer center in Kolovai. There fortunately is one working bathroom.
I’ve been doing a lot of thinking about grant writing and the money that follows. To say the least, throwing money at the problems that we see is not going to solve anything. It’s all about needs verse wants. Did they want a computer center in Kolovai? Of course they did. It’s not a need, it’s a big fat want with many zeros.
1-14-06: Kyle
It’s been a long week. Almost everyday was spent in Nuku’alofa working, and hunting for stuff to kill a rat and to unplug our outdoor shower. It really sucks when you can’t find rat poison, but we finally got some. The shower, we think, got plugged on Monday so there was standing water in the shower until Friday night. The water smelled like a septic tank… That’s where the water drains. So it was a great surprise to get home on Friday the 13th with a full moon beaming down to find the water was not there. I poured some toxic liquid drain opener and did a little dance to hope it’ll help the situation. Hopefully we will be able to take a shower without our feet smelling like poop.
Last night Sarah and I went to Magic Land! It’s not a circus but a traveling carnival with rides, a show, games, and fairy floss! The rides consisted of a ferries wheel, a spinning swing, carousel, the octopus, the helicopters, a spinning and puke ride (Sarah’s name), the magic mouse, and a rollercoaster that looked like a dragon. According to Sarah they were all pukey rides. I brought my 10D to get a couple fun shots of people having fun.
The show, I thought, was a little risqué, but entertaining. Most of the female performers were dressed in g-strings and small tops covering their boobs… nothing more. I bet most males enjoyed the show. One juggled, another hula-hooped, a silver guy, a.k.a Pluto, contorted his body into a pretzel, a midget women swung from the trapeze by her hair, and more.
When it was slow I noticed the creator of Magic land. I friendly man named Bruno who told us about magic land, where it goes, his other acts, and a little about his life. He was actually born in America, but is full Samoan. He’s been back to America once and doesn’t like it anymore. He stays at magic land where it is and never travels outside its borders.
His parents owned magic land before him so he has been bringing smiles and laughter to people all his life. Not a bad gig.
To completely change the subject, Sarah and I watched group 70 swear in as volunteers on Thursday night. It was a typical swearing in with nothing-outrageous happening. The Volunteers of group 70, I must say, had the most entertaining floorshow out of any group I’ve seen thus far. The floorshows are always comical, but with their Vava’u style pointy hats, tongues hanging out of their mouths (Scott), and getting hooked on the Tongan mat and having to have Poli come to the rescue made it extra special. Way to go group 70!
1-15-06: Kyle
I realized in my last journal I skipped over our Christmas holiday in Nuku’alofa. We decided to stay in town that weekend a long ago, but plans changed at the last minute because the original place we were going to stay at didn’t feel right, so we did stayed at the International Dateline Hotel. It’s a nice place with three television channels, hot showers, a pool, and it’s right on the water front. It’s centrally located so we could get ice cream on a whim without having to take a long bus ride to town. They do have ice cream in Kolovai, but I think it’s best not to spend a lot of money on luxury items in our village. We are already labeled as being rich so we don’t want to reinforce it.
The one downfall of the weekend was the maggots in the bathroom trash basket. It’s seems the International Dateline Staff forgot to empty the trash from the last visitors so a bunch of maggots were enjoying the rotting stuff in the trash. But over all, the place is nice. Don’t expect the Maui Hyatt…
Today I notice the prime minister had a lot of police and military officers at the Wesleyan church. Usually when the King comes that is normal, but this is the first time it has happened for the Prime Minister. Are they worried something might happen? I read an article last night on Matangitonga.to about the government schoolteachers going on strike again because they think the government denied promotions to the striking teachers. If this is true or not I have no idea.
Also, While on Matangitonga.to there was an article about banks putting credit limits because the country is running out of money. The government says it is due to the pay raises given to the civil servants. If this is true I do not know, but I bet the boost in wages has made a large impact on the financial situation.
Today was the first time in weeks we had ‘Umu at ‘Eke and Laumanu’s house. They’ve had family visiting from both New Zealand and Australia. It’s been very busy at their house lately so it was probably good we went to Vava’u because they could use our toilet and shower. Maybe that’s why it got clogged?
Rambo is the newest member of the family. Well, I highly doubt the Tongans consider him a member, but Sarah and I think Rambo is an adorable puppy. We fed him a little today after ‘Umu just to let him know we are friendly and we’ve got food. Of course we don’t want to steal him from the family next door, but it’s tough to watch such a cute dog not get love. Hopefully while we are here we can enrich his life a little just like Taha.
1-19-05:Kyle
The other day in our part of the village they celebrated the erecting of streetlights. The lights are indoor fluorescent lights so I’m not sure how they’ll last, but the street to our house and beyond is lit up now. The celebration took place at our neighbor’s house so the party was basically at our house too. They starting setting up the tent at around 2 o’clock and cooking food a little bit later. It was a big BBQ with, beef, ham, chicken, sheep, and sausages.
Many women were dancing and got Sarah up for a little while to dance too. I sat with the men around the kava bowl with the men. It was actually the first time I had kava tonga in Kolovai. I only had one cup and I made it clear that was all I was going to have.
The last package Sarah family sent had a lot of magic bubbles so Sarah decided to break the ice with a lot of the kids and had out magic bubbles. They kids loved it, but some to the parents were annoyed. It was fun to watch the kids run around blowing bubbles having fun. One little boy, Ma’ake, glued on to Sarah almost the entire time and was speaking to her in Tongan. Sarah, for the most part, had no idea what he was saying, but how Ma’ake didn’t even flinch while sitting on Sarah’s lap, and snuggling up to her. Most children, I think, feel that everybody is their parent, more or less, and can find love from anybody. Love, and abuse unfortunately.
Right before the food was going to be served a man that was sitting close to me suddenly stood up, tripped on a empty plastic water bottle, and took a nose dive into the bushes right in front of our house. It freaked both Sarah and I out. We both thought the guy was in serious trouble, because when they got him awake he was gasping for breath and shaking a little. At first I thought maybe he has diabetes and just lost it, but the more I think about it I think he just got up to fast, fainted, lost his balance, and went crashing down. Thank the stars he did hit our house. If he did I bet he would have broke his neck.
So today is Thursday. Sarah and I are just relaxing around the house, doing laundry, and thankfully our shower was fixed yesterday. It’s been about two weeks since it work correctly.
Supposedly, the new Volunteer from group 70 is moving to Kolovai today, but Sarah walked by her house and saw it was still a work in progress. Soon enough she’ll be here learning everything training doesn’t tell you. It’s not the Peace Corps trainings fault for not teaching us everything. Coming to your village for the first time can be pretty scary. You have no idea what to expect. But Peace Corps Tonga, for the most part, does a good job. Cultural training could be a little more in depth. Like what is the correct order to thank people in a fakamalo? Should you make food for ‘Umu is people invite you over? Is it okay to ask questions?
Asking question is a very strange thing here in Tonga. I rarely ask questions, because I think people identify you as stupid. Very few people ask questions. The best example I have here is at the computer center: they call my name, I come over, they tell what they want, and I do it. They don’t phrase the question in a question, but say “can you insert a picture for me.” It would be nice if they asked how they can do it. Most of the time I show them once and from then on they can do whatever task, but some rely on me to do a lot for them. Last night, at the computer center, kids wanted to play a game involving fuhu. So I showed them where the game was, pointed out the name, punch_out.nes, and got them on their way. Many times they ask me where certain games are and I tell them it starts with a “P” or a “T,” not a “D”. After awhile, they become proficient at doing everything for themselves. Now if they’d runt he center. That will hopefully come soon.
1-21-05:Kyle
I officially have my first boil. It’s on my head along the crown. It’s not the most painful thing in the world, but, at times, it can feel like I have a mild headache. Also, I told the Peace Corps Medical Officer about a lump behind my ear and she says I also have a boil in my ear. How that happened I have no idea. It feels like a mild earache. I hope it doesn’t get worse. I have medicine so it shouldn’t. My right kidney has been a little painful as well. Summer in Tonga seems to increase the likelihood that you’ll get sick. Dehydration, humid weather, and the heat can effectively kick your butt.
Lately I’ve been thinking about how NGOs seem to work here in Tonga. I can only comment on what I’ve seen so I can’t say if they are all the same, but it seems very strange that there is very little accountability. It seems they are out to get money and hopefully be able to help the people once all the kinks are worked out with the workshop, program, or whatever is supposed to help the people. Most of the time it seems that the NGOs have to constantly kiss the ass of the donors to get the money to stay alive. Most of the time, energy is spent getting the money and not working on effectively helping the people.
The crazy thing is workshops are the main way of disseminating the information. As far as I can tell workshops don’t work. People go to the workshop, they might listen, and then they go home. Do people use the skills learned from a workshop? In theory yes, but I don’t think it happens to often. Some workshops even pay the people! But what is the best way to teach the people about issues that can and will affect their life? A workshop is a form of education, which is good, but no follow up or sticky to the issue, in most cases, happens. It seems workshops follow the newest buzzword of the day. No focus is made to eliminate the problems at hand because the focus seems to change so often. One month a workshop might teach an effective way to limit farmers from using pesticides and the next month a workshop on how to compost. It seems there is no staying on one subject and sticking to it. If the money that comes is for composting, NGOs will get the money to teach composting, and forget pesticide awareness because there is no money being given for that anymore. By not sticking to one issue or program, NGOs are effectively diluting their ability to help. I don’t think it’s the NGOs fault, but the higher echelons of the system: the donating bodies. The donors completely control what the NGOs are doing, for the most part, because NGOs need the money. It’s unfortunate.
Some programs are lasting. Year after year, certain programs contribute to helping the people, but some do not. And it seems that a lot more energy and money is spent on the new programs because it takes longer to get workshops off the ground. If they’d just stick to a couple issues and keep hammering away, I believe, change will happen. Keep the issues simple: don’t litter, don’t physically or mentally abuse others, primary education, and healthy eating habits. Some would take a lot more work, but if they stick to fewer issues, it’s bound to be tattooed on people’s brains. If donors stuck to a few issues and didn’t force NGOs to change their focus, change would happen.
There is one institution that effectively stuck to one issue and completely changed the country: religion. I’m sure on the current statistics, but I can guarantee over 90% of the people believe in God. It’s probably closer to 99%. That’s an incredible success in change. You can argue if it was a good change, but that is not the point. The point being that change is possible if you truly embrace whatever you’re trying to improve and do not waver.
1-28-06: Kyle
The last couple days it’s been raining pusi mo kuli. I seriously thought our sima vai was going to be empty and having to find water that was drinkable. No worries the sima vai is doing well. A lot of the namu larvae have come out in our water so I hope we will get some clean water for the time being.
Not much else happening. Just working at the computer center, still helping TNYC, and going to the TBC to help the IT person clean up the mess the last guy made of their systems. It’s nice to actually have work to do and figure something new out. Unraveling TBC might take some work, but it will be an accomplishment. There are a couple strange things happening with the Linux server that I cannot figure out, but in time I’ll understand what the heck is happening. Add a couple more lines to the resume that will hopefully allow me to find work when I get home.
Sarah and I have been thinking a lot about home lately. Mostly thinking about jobs, food, and fun. At times, I feel like it will be a huge transition for both of us, but dealing with Tonga time, it will be a breath of fresh air. I still undecided to what I’ll do when I get back. Most of the time I think about a career in photography, but I know how hard it is. Another part of me wants to work in computers, but will it make me happy? I have plenty of time to think about my options.
So the new Peace Corps Volunteer is in Kolovai. Valerie arrived on Wednesday night to a big house on the Wesleyan primary school property. Sarah told me she has an indoor shower (with tile), a big living room, a pretty comfortable bedroom, and a good size kitchen. Makes our house sound like a shack. Oh wait, it is. No, our house after 16 months feels like home, but I’d give a lot for an indoor shower. Hot water isn’t on the radar anymore. Our solar shower does an awesome job.
So today marks 224 days until COS. It sounds like a long time but to this day I’ve spent (doing the math…) 547 days in Tonga. That is subtracting my trip to America. 224 days doesn’t sound bad. They are dropping like cockroaches.
I’m also working on a page about what to pack for future volunteers. I hope it will be helpful.